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Palm Sunday and the churches were full this morning, some were decorated with willow tree branches, palm leaves and other decorative flowers but the most notable decoration was of course the decorative pieces made out of Palm leaves that hung from the chandeliers and around the church. Zakynthos is known for this tradition and is set apart from other areas around Greece. These decorative pieces take time and effort to make but for those who do know how to make them it is a big honour.
This year, I was lucky to learn how to make the “Vagia” as it is known, a tradition that has been kept centuries. The most decorative of all being that of the star and the donkey or horse as some will say. The tradition on making them is usually done among the faithful at their local church , choosing a day to gather to make their decorations. This year I chose my local village of Ambelokipi, a quiet local church but with all the Zakynthian traditions tied into to this little church, that would leave some of the bigger churches in awe.
We started around 10.00 a.m on Friday, arriving at the church some were already positioned at the table tearing the leaves away from the palm they had brought. I watched carefully at the technique on how they make these pieces of artwork, intrigued at the end result. First it was the cross, this was to be handed out on the day to those who celebrated Palm Sunday, as the basket became full of crosses, it was then onto the decorations for the church. The star or sun as most call it, was high on the list and two of us decided that this year we would make enough to fill up the church. Indeed we did and not only the stars but we made palm chains to decorated across the chandeliers to get all in the festive mood. As for the donkey, now that was a tricky one but I must say I learnt the trick of the trade and managed to make twenty for the day.
This morning with the church bells ringing people started filling the church, the children’s eyes focused on the decorations we had made and a sense of gratitude filled out hearts. Easter is about giving hope and bringing people together and in a sense from a few bunch of leaves that’s exactly what happened. As the priest sang hymns and blesses the Vayia, he then in turn handed them out to each and everyone. A smile in my heart and a sense of satisfaction was when a young girl went galloping off to her mum, in awe of her little palm donkey her brother managed to pull down from the top of the chandelier, look mummy look, it’s a donkey Jesus rode” she shouted out loud, for me at that moment, it was a reassurance that these traditions should never be lost. This long lived tradition would be, so to say, the announcement of the start of ” Holy Week”.
We are now in strict lent, even for those who have not been fasting during ‘Great Lent’ have joined in on this ritual. This means no meat or dairy products at least till the resurrection on Easter Saturday evening, early Sunday morning. “Kronia Polla” and may this week bring joy into the hearts of all.
I have included a church programme for the village of Ambelokipi for those who would like to not only celebrate Orthodox Easter but perhaps join in and take part of a traditional Zakynthian Easter.
Holy Monday 22th April,
19.30p.m Holy Service starts.
Holy Tuesday 23th April,
20.15p.m Holy Service starts with the Zakynthian Troparion of Kassiani (choir Koukoumelis Kothis of St. Dionysios Church)
Holy wednesday 24th April
08.30a.m Holy Service begins
18.30p.m The service of the Holy Grace. This is where you are anointed with oil by the priest.
19.30p.m Holy Services
Holy Thursday 25th April,
08.30a.m Holy Services communion for all
19.00p.m Holy Service (the great supper)
After the service the epitaph will be decorated with flowers all are welcome.
Good Friday 26th April,
08.30a.m Holy service ( The final hours)
10.30 a.m Holy Service
19.30p.m Holy service (the Epitaph, hymns sung by the women’s choir “Rodambelos”.
20.30 the procession of the Epitaph from the church through the streets and then back to the church. Once back inside the church, the traditional lament is sung, which is only sung by women, on this day they mourn Christ. The church of St. Nicholas of Ambelokipi is the only church that still keeps this tradition.
Holy Saturday 27th April,
08.30a.m Holy Services (The first resurrection)
23.00p.m Holy Service for Easter
24.00 MIDNIGHT (The resurrection of Christ) Fire works, Christos Anesti! The church will provide the Zakynthian traditional Easter egg and Easter biscuit. Midnight mass will presume.
The programme is similar for most churches across Zakynthos the only one being different is that of the Metropolis and the church of St. Nicholas in town, Good Friday being an extra special service in which all of Zakynthos take part. I will be posting more as the week progresses.
