Saturday , May 4 2024

Zakynthos mourns today.

As you walk around Zakynthos you may see the “Pefki” hanging from the balconies of churhces and homes. The “black” flag that announces mourning.  Today is one of the most dramatic days of the year as far as religious ceremonies go. Zakynthos pays tribute in her own unique way.
The only church that does not decorate its Epitaph with flowers based on old Zakynthian traditions is the Metropolitian Church located in town.  In addition it has its very own Epitaph early hours Holy Saturday Morning.
The service starts around 2.00a.m and finishes with the first light when ‘Gloria’ has been sung. This announces the first resurrection of Christ. Truely, it is an experience to take part in this ceremony.
The actual litany takes place at 4.00a.m Holy Saturday (Friday night), even though its in the wee hours Zakynthos town is alive with the faithful eager to take part in the mourning. It’s Zakynthian’s way of paying respect for Christ. The litany eventually returns back to the church where the service will continue.

The hour of Judas’

Alot of things will be happening during that time within the church and outside around the square. ‘The hour of Judas’ Zakynthian tradition has it, that objects are stolen, usually shops signs or generally anything they want to get their hands on, even a donkey was taken once. All in good fun their owns would find their stolen goods amoungst a clatter of things located in the centre of the square, often the next morning. Zakynthians will gather under the centre’s clock in a large circle to break their clay pots once the ‘Gloria’ is sung. Before, while waiting for the signal, you will often see coins thrown into the centre, this representing the silver coins Judas recieved for betraying Christ.
Once the ‘Gloria’ is sung a cracking sound ecoes through the square as pots are thrown with the idea they break into pieces. A symbol of Christ’s ressurrection. Many will take a piece home from the pile of rubble left from the broken pots, proof that ‘Christ has Risen’. In the past a tradition was for the first butcher who would slaughter the animal quickly and present all or «kommati» (piece) of it to the ruler of the island, won a prize. From this fact, the First Resurrection took the name «kommati». nowadays the kommati would be a piece from the broken clay pots piled on top of each other.
Whilst in the church, the service takes on a whole different atmosphere. Just before the ‘Gloria’ and after mourning Christ in the Epitaph, the Bishop then prays in his chambers for the first ‘Gloria ‘the church lights will be turned off, a thundering sound bellows out through the church, it is almost deafening as people wonder what is going on. A sign that Christ has Risen and then a sudden burst of light, song as the Bishop comes out dressed in celebration calling out ‘Christ Has Risen’ and throwning daphne leaves to the faithful. ‘Xristos Anesti’ Christ has risen can be heard amongst the faithful as they kiss each other on the cheek and wish health and prosperity to all. Alithos o Kirios’ The lord is true, is what you will hear answered back.
Once home, a literally, festive mood is felt all through Zakynthos as an announcement of the first resurrection is talked about.
A busy morning for all. Women will start their chores by dying eggs red, some have already dyed them on Holy Thursday but in Zakynthos it has always been the tradition to dye their eggs after the ‘kommati’. This being a big difference to what English speaking countries do. Actual eggs are dyed as a symbol of rebirth. Chocolate eggs are not given among each other, however over last few years an influence of the more English traditions have slowly crept in and chocolate eggs are usually bought only for the children. Holy Saturday evening is the highlight of the week when every Zakynthian pays respect to ‘The Resurrection’. It is at midnight that Greeks will welcome the resurrection and take the Holy light home. Before they enter their home they will make a sign of the Cross over their doorway as a symbol of good luck. Then they all sit to eat for the first time after Great Lent a meat dish or soup called ‘Skatzeto’. A significant game is played on Holy Saturday early Easter Sunday. ‘who’s got the best and strongest egg. A game that Greeks don’t take lightly. The aim is to choose a red-dyed egg of your choice and then try to knock your opponents out by breaking their egg. Bottoms first, then tips or whichever way you choose. Whoever wins is said to be blessed.
The Holy Saturday’s main dish will be prepared through the day. Zakynthians will eat seafood at lunch time, as they are still in Lent but the evening, or midnight mass meal is prepared also. ‘Skatzeto’ offal soup, which is made from lamb. The table will also consist of ‘Hiromeri, eggs, Easter Kouloura and of course Zakynthian ‘ladotiri’ local cheese, all will be washed down with Zakynthian wine.
Easter Sunday, it was a tradition in Zakynthos to eat ‘egg and lemon soup’ but once again this tradition is slowly dying out as the infulence of mainland Greece has made its way into most Zakynthian homes. Lamb or goat on the spit, slowly roasting over hot flames in the backyard and sounds of gunshots will be heard throughout the villages when the lamb is cooked and taken from the spit ready to eat. I always chuckle at that idea, it’s a great way of knowing when to turn up at the next door neighbours, as your bound to be served with roast straight off the spit.
Well, that’s all for now as I want to enjoy our Easter with the people I care about most. This year, it is even more special for me as my whole family will be together to celebrate once more. A blessing in its own. On behalf of all of our Zakynthos Informer team, we would like to wish you all a very Happy Zakynthian Easter wherever you may be and let’s hope that the ressurrection of Christ will be a ressurrection for all. Xristos Anesti!

About Louise Inzk

Louise is Australian born and has been a Greek citizen since 1991. She has deep cultural ties with the island, often writing about Zakynthian Traditions and Culture. She is also an active member of the Volunteer Group of Zakynthos, Giostra Di Zante and is a member of the women's choir "Rodambelos". Her love of the island and all it offers saw her joining the Zakynthos (Zante) Informer admin team in 2014.

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